Open post

Part 2 Victorian Corset

Been very busy doing family things every now and then had some time to start back on my corset.

After you set the busk in the first steps now….

Press the seam flat, then press it open.  Turn the right sides out now with the centers front at the edge of the busk.

markforstuds

 

Now place both of the panels up to match.  When the are close for the centers to touch now place marks (small ones where your going to make your holes with your awl.

 

Only do one at a time, you want to go slow.  You spent a lot of time on this and you really don’t want to mess up now.studplacement

insetstud

 

 

Make sure not to make your hole to big. Better smaller than to big and work it slowly into the material.

 

 

sewstudbuskin

 

 

When it all lines up then I pinned the stud busk to make sure it wouldn’t slide and sewn down the side of it to make it sit.

 

 

 

 

 

corsetliningchannel

 

 

Once I finished this I went back and sewn all the lining pieces together.

 

trimlining

 

 

Make sure to do the same thing with the slits like you did the front to.

 

 

sewliningtocenterfront

 

 

 

Now it time to sew the two materials together and make a tube which you will be turning rights sides out.

 

 

 

 

pinforstichinditch

 

Once you have both right sides facing you need to line up the seam lines with one another. After you do this you will need to stitch in the ditch. This is when you sew both layers top and lining together. You will be sewing in both seams together.

You will need to pin at each edge, at the waist and the rest of the seam. It took a long time to make sure you get both inner seams before you pin.

I found out its better to pin each and every row at once so it doesn’t shift of you.  Go slow and slowly move your pins out why you slow and remove them once you get there.  Be sure not to hit the pin.

 

stichditch

 

 

Make sure when your stitching in the ditch sew it on the front to get nice lines in the ditch.

 

 

 

 

 

Now its time to move on the boning channels. First you want to make the back channels first and measure what the directions tell you.  You make two so the grommets go in between them.

My corset states to use 1/4″ boning channels.  Don’t make them to small or too big.  If to big they can move and twist in the channel when you wear it.

boningchannels

 

 

There are all kinds of different ways to measure the boning channel but for me.  I found out by putting it next to the seam and sliding the boning down next to.   I then pinned it in place, so it wouldn’t move.

 

 

 

 

zipperfootbonningchannel

I then used my zipper foot to move right next to it.  I moved the needle over a bit so it would be closer to the channel.  For me it work great and gave me nice straight lines to.

 

You can see here how the zipper foot would follow it down the boning and my a nice straight channel.

 

 

pinwaisttapefirstAfter completing all your channels it time to add the supporting twill tape for the waistline.  This is very important to support the waist and to prevent stretching at the waistline.

 

 

 

pinonrightside

 

You will need to pin first then repin on the front. You will be sewing down the same line as the boning channel seam.  Be very careful not to slip into the channel.

pininwaisttape

waisttapesewin

 

You don’t need to do every channel maybe 6.  Make sure to sew the beginning and end of the twill tape so its supports the line.

 

 

 

 

 

Open post

Victorian Corset

Started my Victorian Bust-Core Corset.  This is what the use to wear in the 1840 -1890’s.  I’m working on this interesting pattern.  I’m truly trying to get the correct silhouette For my historical bustle dress.  I have read a lot of information about this time frame and it’s important to get the correct silhouette underneath your garment so it will look and hold the dress actuality.

sewpanels

First I had to cut all the items of the material.  One is the coutil, one is the lining and the last one is the fashion fabric. Which will be showing on the outside. I made sure I serged each piece before I started sewing them together.  Make sure to number the pieces first.  Its very easy to get them mixed up with one another.

 

 

 

 

sewingcorset1

 

 

 

I found out the hard way and once I figured it out I numbers all three material to then sew them in a assembly line.

 

 

 

 

sewingcorset

 

 

 

Then you need to make sure each piece will fit the other piece, the best it can. Take your time and make sure you get it all correct.

 

 

 

 

completecorsetpanelOnce you have all pieces sewn together this is call a panel now. Now you need to iron the seams open then due to the curves in the corset you’re going to have  to use a pressing ham which will make is so much easier to have it bend but at the same time iron a nice seam.

 

 

corset

 

You can see here that each seam is pressed open but before you can do this; you need to cut small cuts at the edge of the material to give the material some give to the sharpness of each seams. DO NOT CUT TO CLOSE TO THE SEAM.

 

corsetsnips

 

 

 

By doing this it will help with the seam so it won’t pucker.  After cutting each area that pulls on the seam make sure to seam press again and a again to get it just right.

 

 

 

bastechanels

 

After clipping and ironing down the seams I decided to baste down my side seams down. This will help later when I add the boning to each seam.

 

 

setupbuskNext you will add one of the other lining panel to your your main fabric of contil.    First lay it down on the corset and pin it very well eventually  and mark it with a pen or pencil very lightly.

corsetsewmarksoutlinebuskHere you can see my marking where I’m going to have to sew and stop at one line and pick up the foot and needle to put back down on the start of the next hole.

Dont forget to go back and forth with your sewing machine to make each opening that much stronger on the edges.  In this picture you can see where I sewn and stopped for the busk to slide in.

 

 

 

Open post

Petticoat

The other day I got my material in so I hurried and wash it before use. This is a good thing to do especially with cotton, due to it shrinks.  This way once you fit it exactly to your body, it won’t shrink at all.

I started cutting my overlay pattern with all the ruffles.startoverly

 

I did a overlock from my serger on all the edges.  Looks quite nice.  After I did each piece I sewn the overlay together.

 

 

 

 

 

sergededge

 

All the ruffles I did to.. it takes time but looks nice.

 

 

 

After doing each piece i had to hem one side of the ruffles.  I decided to iron the hem down first before I sewn it.  It went pretty fast when I did it that way. You should start at the bottom and work your way to the top when you start to sew the ruffles on.  By doing it this way, it will help you to not get the previous ruffle in the way as you sew.

sewingruffle

 

After I gather each ruffle. I made sure the gathers looked right before I sew it down. For doing this I measured each row from the bottom up, and kept them all the same height from one another.measurerows

I wanted the ruffles to be accurate for each row and to look proportioned correctly from another. By doing this, it will make all my ruffles be accurate to each and every row.

It took a lot of time but it does look quite nice now.

 

 

 

overlaydone

 

It’s finally finish and looking pretty good with the ruffle tiers in place. Now I need to sew each and every row ends to the overlay itself.

This is a really good idea, this will make the material have more of a curve, which will help to support the skirt.  If you would have left it alone, the weight of the skirt would push it down and would make your outer skirt look flat.

 

 

 

overlaysewnruffleedges

 

You can see here by doing this it give it the material a slight curve to it, which will help support the weight for the skirt.

 

fullbustleoverlay

 

After making your overlay it needs to be added to the bustle skirt.  This was a chore due to you have your boning already in.

backbustleoverlay

I still made it work, I really didn’t want to sew this by hand.  Once this was on I fitted to my form.  Its kind of heavy it’s pulling on the form.

overlaybustle

 

 

Open post

Finishing Petticoat with Wire Bustle

For the bustle it’s time to put the boning in.  This was a challenge for me.  I followed the directions but man there has to be a better way.  They tell you to leave an opening to slide it in and then go back and hand sew it.  The first one was a mess. I notice you need to leave a bigger opening and slide it in one side and then slide the other end in… by doing this you will have a bow on the outside of the boning and slide it in carefully without ripping your casting. Then slide it down the channel.

bustleboning

 

 

 

 

 

sewinties

 

Next you need to sew at each end of the channels some cord.  This is for a collapsible bustle which is quite nice. They are big and this way they won’t take up to much of your closets space.  You can see the ties I used was not cotton it was synthetic so I could burn the ends, this way they wouldn’t fray.

 

 

 

 

tiedbustletogether

 

This is what it looks like inside the bustle after you tie them together. Really cool pattern.

 

 

 

backbustle

Here is the bustle finally done.. I will need to go back andsidebustle determine the length of the hem I will need.  This is a back view and a side view the silhouette is great. Now onto the petticoat.

 

 

Open post

Steampunk Belts

I wanted to make some belts for my steampunk outfit for holding items and to look the part.  I’m making one from a pattern (mccalls 6975) The other is a side pouch on my hip and thigh. This one I’m designing and drafting myself.

beltpattern

For the wide belt I cut all the pieces out of this material that looks and feels like suede but isn’t.  Its a vinyl material of some kind.  I bought this fabric along time ago.

beltinginterface

3materials

 

I decided for it to be stiffer I would add heavy interfacing on one side of the material. To make it thicker.

 

 

 

 

 

I had some issues with this, the material and interfacing would move so much it would move right off or pucker the material and looked horrible. So I tried several different functions and sewing foots that just didn’t work.

Rollerfoot

I decided to by two new feet for my machine and to see what worked best with this material. I bought a teflon foot and a rolling foot.

The teflon didn’t really work well at all. I was getting quit worried that nothing was going to work.  Finally tired the rolling foot and it worked quite well.  This is for leather and vinyl material. Now I can finally get back to sewing my belts.

bastinginterfacing

 

First I basted all the interfacing to each of the cut out parts of the belt. Then sewn both of the pieces together.

 

basteinterfacing
beltingAfter doing this you can see it pulled way to much at the close corners so I went in and trimmed the corners to let the seams relax more and wouldn’t pucker.

 

sewtogether

Went to the other piece and did the same thing to that one.  It was better to sew with the interfacing on the down side where the feed dogs could move both fabrics and the same time.

ironseamdownHere I noticed after sewing both pieces together I needed to set the seam. I ironed the seam and when I turned it over to the right side it looked more crisp. With this material it still had a puffiness to it so each piece I decided to on the right side to sew on the edge all the way around it.

Now Im waiting for hardware will post at a later time.

 

Scroll to top