1884 French Vest Bodice
This pattern is by Truly Victorian – TV463
Make sure if you are working with a 100% Cotton you wash and dry it before you cut it.
This way it won’t shrink at all on you. By doing this first you can have a perfect fit. As always cut out your pattern pieces and serge or use a different stitch to hold the edging from unraveling. This will give your garment a more cleaner look to itself when finished.
BEFORE I CUT THIS I DID A MARKUP ONE TO ADJUST THE SIZING FOR ME
(use cheap muslin to do the markup it will save you time and your good fabric)
First you will be cutting all layers. You will have at least two layers. One the fashion fabric and the other lining. For me I decided to have a 3rd. I felt the cotton muslin was way too limp. So I decided to use an iron on interfacing.
One Fashion Fabric
(This will give my material more substance to it.)
Iron on all the interfacing to the inside of the white lining. By doing this you would not see the interfacing at all.
This piece is called the side. I laid out all the pieces and started with the side piece to sew to the Front. Make sure to iron the inner seam on both side to set the seam. Remember to set the seam.
After doing this I will sew the side back to the side piece.
Here I sew all three side pieces together and opened and ironed all seams inside and out. To get an accurate size, I used all 1/2″ seams throughout my whole project. I want to make sure I will get the fit I measured fo
Now sew the side back piece to the back and sew the two back pieces together right up through the middle.
After you sew the backs together it’s time to sew the top of each shoulder fronts to the shoulders backs.
You will see it gets harder and harder to open the seams and to iron them. The are curved and to set in the seams you need a very helpful tool. Its called a ham, one side is made of cotton and the other side is flannel. You can put a cured edge and iron the seam with no problems now.
Now to sew the Front to the vest part on each side.
With right sides together, sew Collar lining to collar along the top. Baste the bottom edge of the collar to hold the lining down. After sewing make sure to cut a couple of small notches in the curved areas
Iron seam open and turn it over to iron the other side.
Take the long piece of the Collar and find the center by folding it in half. This will give you the center easily. Pin it to rights sides together, having the collar on the outside.
This is how it looks so far. Use the Ham again to open up the inner seam.
To make things easy for you Iron down about an 1/4″ seam down. When you fold this over you can now pen in place and sew it to the inside collar.
Before I go any further I will try this on to see how accurate it really is to my figure. But I really do need to do it to have all my piece on first… my chemise, corset, bustle, four gore skirt and august overskirt on. I need to then see how much of a dark in the front that I will need to add to get a more accurate fit.