Open post

French Vest Bodice

1884 French Vest Bodice

This pattern is by Truly Victorian – TV463

Make sure if you are working with a 100% Cotton you wash and dry it before you cut it.

This way it won’t shrink at all on you.  By doing this first you can have a perfect fit.  As always cut out your pattern pieces and serge or use a different stitch to hold the edging from unraveling.  This will give your garment a more cleaner look to itself when finished.

BEFORE I CUT THIS I DID A MARKUP ONE TO ADJUST THE SIZING FOR ME

(use cheap muslin to do the markup it will save you time and your good fabric)

cut

 

 

First you will be cutting all layers.  You will have at least two layers.  One the fashion fabric and the other lining.  For me I decided to have a 3rd.  I felt the cotton muslin was way too limp.  So I decided to use an iron on interfacing.

 

 

 

 

all3layers

 

One Fashion Fabric

Two lining

Three Interfacing

(This will give my material more substance to it.)

 

 

 

 

Iron on all the interfacing to the inside of the white lining.  By doing this you would not see the interfacing at all.

sewfrontside

 

 

This piece is called the side.  I laid out all the pieces and started with the side piece to sew to the Front. Make sure to iron the inner seam on both side to set the seam. Remember to set the seam.

 

rightside

sideback

 

 

After doing this I will sew the side back to the side piece.

 

 

 

 

 

sewallsidestogether

Here I sew all three side pieces together and opened and ironed all seams inside and out.  To get  an accurate size, I used all 1/2″ seams throughout my whole project.  I want to make sure I will get the fit I measured fo

 

Now sew the side back piece to the back and sew the two back pieces together right up through the middle.

ironseams

 

After you sew the backs together it’s time to sew the top of each shoulder fronts to the shoulders backs.

 

hamforironing

You will see it gets harder and harder to open the seams and to iron them.  The are curved and to set in the seams you need a very helpful tool.  Its called a ham, one side is made of cotton and the other side is flannel. You can put a cured edge and iron the seam with no problems now.

sewingfront

 

 

 

Now to sew the Front to the vest part on each side.

 

 

 

 

 

collarpieces
With right sides together, sew Collar lining to collar along the top. Baste the bottom edge of the collar to hold the lining down. After sewing make sure to cut a couple of small notches in the curved areas

 

ironseamcollar

 

Iron seam open and turn it over to iron the other side.

 

 

ironseamopen

 

 

 

Take the long piece of the Collar and find the center by folding it in half.  This will give you the center easily.  Pin it to rights sides together, having the collar on the outside.

 

 

 

outsidecollar

 

 

 

This is how it looks so far.  Use the Ham again to open up the inner seam.

 

 

 

 

collar

 

 

To make things easy for you Iron down about an 1/4″ seam down.  When you fold this over you can now pen in place and sew it to the inside collar.

ironcollarandtuckinside

top

 

Before I go any further I will try this on to see how accurate it really is to my figure.  But I really do need to do it to have all my piece on first… my chemise, corset, bustle, four gore skirt and august overskirt on.  I need to then see how much of a dark in the front that I will need to add to get a more accurate fit.

 

Open post

August Overskirt

The pattern I’m using is by Truly Victorian

1883 August Overskirt – TV365

ironiron

 

Before I get started my material is pretty wrinkled and I want to have a crisp look.  I spray it with light mist of water then iron over it.  Here you can see the difference one side is iron without water the other is.

 

 

sewfrontpanels

 

 

 

Cut out pieces and sew apron front to sides fronts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

foldhemIron hem then pin before you sew it can  give you a cleaner line.

 

 

 

pinhembeforesew

 

 

 

pleatsupward

 

 

Fold pleats in front apron, bringing bottom of pleat mark to meet top of pleat mark.  Baste pleats in place.  Pleats should fold upward on correct side of fabric. Sorry didn’t have a picture with this skirt.

 

 

 

 

Now to create a placket

ironseamplacket

 

Fold back placket in half lengthwise, right sides together.

 

aftersewnplacket

 

Fold placket piece open and press in place

 

 

On the left hand side of skirt, matching raw edges at top and side. I didn’t really like their instructions so I did mine a little different.

leftsideplacket

 

 

After sewing each side of the placket I then sew the side seam up to the top of the placket about an inch past the edge to make it stay in place.  You can see here one of the upper pleats in the apron. From making pervious.

 

 

 

 

sewsideseamdown

 

 

Here you can see the top and bottom of the skirt doesn’t match.  This is because the back is a lot longer due to later I will be making poufs.  I did follow the seam down and folded in to finish the side seam.

 

 

 

 

Now to move on to making the pleats in the back of the skirt.

measureforpleats

 

To get everything just right I measure how long it is.  Depending on how big I want to make my pleats I make sure to find the middle first.

 

centerpleat

For the center pleat I make it each side half of the original size lets say an inch. so each side is half-inch which is brought in from under side. By doing this you give a center point and each side of pleats have a right direction and a left direction. Make sure to pin it a couple of places.

foldoingofpleat

 

Showing you half pleat how it’s tucked under itself.

 

measure

 

Now for each pleat I measure it to be the same size for.  I’m working on the right direction. Pin and Iron it helps so much.  It hard to get a nice line but due to these strips it help me a lot to get a nice line to follow.

rightsidepleates

 

Finish with the right side you can see all the pleats are going the right direction.

 

 

pleatspinning

 

Now I’m taking my pleat to gather from the left side to tuck under. You should  follow the same direction and measuring each one.

readytobaste

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally finished Look how you can see the middle pleat that sits on the top and the others right and left follow that direction of the pleat.

 

sewdown

 

 

Now its time to baste them in place.  You want to go slow.  The can move and come untucked so slow and moved pins out one at a time.

 

 

 

 

 

completedpleats

 

Now they are basted I sprayed some water on them and iron the heck out of them so the pleats will set in good. Once I’m happy with the way the look I will sew them for good.

 

waistbandiron

 

 

Once both sides are sewn and back is all pleated you can sew on the waist band.

Make sure to leave about 1/2″ on each side over the edge of skirt for later closing.

 

Open post

Four-Gore Underskirt

This pattern is from Truly Victorian TV261-R

It’s a 1885  Four-Gore Underskirt

Make sure if you are working with a 100% Cotton you wash and dry it before you cut it.  This way it won’t shrink at all and you can make it fit you perfectly.  As always cut out your pattern pieces and serge or use a different stitch to hold the edging from unraveling.

For the front piece make to darts and iron to the inside.

dartsinfront

Depending on which style you like to do for this skirt it can be with a bustle or not.  You have an Optional Bouffant if you like.  I will show you how to do this but I’m not going to make mine this way.  Just showing you if you like to.

pleatsupward

 

First sew darts into front and sides on the panels of the skirt shown here. Pinning them in place make sure it hang correctly.  Make sure the darts face toward the back.

 

 

 

 

 

ironseam

 

Sew back to sides and remember to iron your seams open

On the left side, end seam 8 to 9″ from waist and back-stitch.  to form a packet by turning open edge under 1/2″ and top stitch down.

Now you need to either gather back with a baste stitch or make pleats in the back.  (I will show you later)

You will sewn waistband on skirt and leave a 1″ on both sides at the placket flat.

skirttwilltape

 

After doing this you will cut 3 tapes approx. 20″ long.  hand stitch tapes to waistband, one at the center back and one at waist side, half way between center back side seam.

 

 

bustleYou will pin back to the tapes were indicated on pattern, so that each mark is lifted 6″ up the tape. Adjust pouf to personal preference.  Hand stitch in desired location.  This step is easiest to do while skirt is hanging or on a dress form.  I changed mine to what ever way to make it look more natural.  Use safety pins when doing this so it will stay on the tape better.

 

 

 

 

Ok now moving on to the way I decided to make my skirt.  It says to pleat the back panel. (I will show you how to in the overskirt directions.

undersideofpleates

 

 

This is the under side of the pleats.

securingpleats

 

 

 

 

To make sure my pleats will stay uniform and after washing I sewn about two inches on each placket down on the opening side.

 

 

 

 

After this its time to put the waistband on the skirt leaving an inch on each side.  Moving on to the hem the skirt.

rollhem

 

 

Finish the hem by folding the bottom edge under 1/2″ and again 1″.  Now stitch in place. When I do this I always iron it first to give it a more crisp line.

 

 

 

 

 

For me I wanted to make small pleats for the bottom ruffle.  This is very time-consuming but I really like how it looks and its historical correct for this time period.

ironhem

 

Sew all the pieces of ruffles sides together to form a one long piece.

 

 

 

allironedforpleating

 

 

 

Hem the bottom edge by turning under 1/2″ and again 1/2″ and sew down. For the top turn it down 1/2″ down and iron it in place.

 

 

 

 

Now for the fun stuff.

mtlinpleater

 

This is called a perfect pleater. Depending on what with you would like for your pleats it baste on how man tuck per line.  I decided to do ever two.. It give is a bigger pleat.  It takes a little practice but once you figure it out it really easy to do.  To keep your pleats in you can use water and a small amount of vinegar.  It really keep the pleats in.  Before you remove them to sew.  I used some masking tape to hold them in place.

 

 

bastpleas

 

It’s very tricky to baste them in place as they want to move on you, so hold down your tape and watch the underside to keep the folds uniform.

 

 

 

finishedpleats

 

wow finally done it took me two hours but I really like how they will look on the skirt.

Open post

Small Brag

Last weekend I entered my Burgundy and Cream Steampunk outfit at the Nevada State Fair.  Low and behold I got a 1st and a Best In Show.

Wow,   Thank you for all who loved my costume and work.

Steampunk 2015
Steampunk 2015
Open post

Part 3 Victorian Corset

sewendsafterboning

 

Now its time to sew the bottom of the corset to start putting boning in.

 

 

 

addboning

 

For this corset I did some research and I felt I didn’t have enough boning. I wanted more support for the bust area.

Make sure you measure correctly for the boning. You  don’t want them to be too long as you need to have room for the top bias to cover the edges. Better to be to short then to long.

 

 

 

pinbiastoupperlower

I used double fold bias tape.  You can make your own if you like. Now I pinned the bias tape on the edges and make sure to line it up correctly with the edges.

You’re going to want to make sure you get the bias tape in the first fold in line with the edge of the sewonbiasinditchmaterial.  It’s about 1/4″ from the edge and try not to hit any boning.

Here you can see I stitched right on the first fold and let me tell you that boning moves on you at times. I broke 2 needles… little bugger.

sewingribbonThis pattern calls for adding a ribbon to the top of the corset.  I wanted to try this; so it will hug my top part better.  Before you sew the bias tape down on the other side, you place the ribbon at the end and I cupped it on both side of the corset and sewn back and forth on both sides of the ribbon. Going through front, corset material and back of the ribbon. I wanted to make sure it wouldn’t ever break.

laceribbionThis is how it looks on the front side after pinning the bias tape down on the other side.  I know you can see the pink ribbon color coming through.  It’s fine for me I will be decorating later and it will bastbiasdownsmwhipsgticheshave embroidery to match.

To make sure I get everything even and placed right. I basted the bias tape down on the inside.  I did it in another color, so it will be easy to see it when I take it out after I sew it with white.

To make sure you don’t see the stitches I sew it by hand with a whip stitch small as possible.  Boy this was a lot of work.  But well worth it, it looks so clean on the front.

 

 

 

markholepacement

 

Before you start putting in your rivets, make sure you use a ruler to measure each rivets placement and mark it about an inch apart.  Depending on how many rivets you want.  The more you have the better. This way it will distribute the stress on the corset evenly throughout.  You can see I used a pen to place my rivets holes.

 

 

 

 

rivettools

 

I bought a rivet tool kit and let me tell you its worth every penny. They aren’t that much but well worth it.  I have done rivets without it before and its hard and they don’t come out as nice.

holecutter

 

This is the tool to make the hole for the rivets they give you some wood to put behind it as it cut the material out.  Couple hits with the hammer.

 

holepunched

 

 

Look how nice and even this hole is after using this punching tool. You don’t even have to hit the hammer really that hard.  It comes out so nice and clean.

 

 

 

 

rivettool

 

After making the hole you put the rivet with the long inner shank through the hole.  Place the top rivet on it.  It it a couple of time and its set.  What a great tool.

 

rivetsdone

 

 

Here is the back all finished riveted.  Now lace it up and you’re ready to try it on.

 

finishedcorset

 

 

I had to tie it in the front due to I put this on by myself.  Now its time to decorate it.

 

 

 

 

corsetwtrim

 

 

I added the white and pink trim by hand.  Next I will be flossing it with embroidery threadcorsetpinktrim

Scroll to top