Next need to start adding the bottom pleats and start making the box pleats to go over the top of the bottom peats.
After you measure each box pleat you then sew down the middle to hold them in place.
When I get some more time I will show you how I turn this trim into flowers to go on my pleated trim.
Here you can see how each one is folded again and again. Each side looks like it has box pleats. Next I will show you have to turn them into flowers.
Now it’s time to do the fun part. Let’s make them look like small flowers.
First you will need to only catch only the top layer of the box pleat only. You will weave up and down like a baste stitch together on both sides of the pleat.
Now pull the thread tight together to bunch up the material like so.
Now go through both top and bottom and make a knot to keep it together.
Now you will string on a jew or pearl to your liking and sew in place. This takes a lot of time but looks very nice once it’s all done.
First need to add the waistband on to the skirt. Make sure to iron the edges down and then iron again when its flat over the bottom edge like so.
Sew it in place
Next I will be finishing the bottom on the skirt I will be flat lining.
Now to move on to the waist band. First fold over the top about half In and iron it down. This will help you get a nice straight line.
Now fold it again and tuck it under its self like this. Now you can sew it together.
After completing this I started to sew the ties on the bottom, middle to tie back the front of the over skirt. As you can see here it’s not yet to my liking.
So I added another tie to the back making it three ties to get this effect.
Once I got what I liked I started on the pleated trim.
I measured everything to the T.
Made sure its all the right size and started ironing the whole line. After you have a nice and flat material. I start folding in the bottom and top to make the pleated trim.
Make sure you measure your fold all the way down and across. I started with a 4 1/2 in width. After the fold I will end up with a 3 inch in size.
Now that it has been folded and sewn the bottom of the trim you need to start making your pleats with the pleater.
Make sure after ironing you put some tape down to hold your pleats in place before you sew them together.
Your pleats should look like this after you sew them together and now you can take of the tape.
Now it’s time to start pinning the pleats to the bottom of the over skirt. After I did that I sewn some white trim to give it some accent too.
Now I need to move onto the back bustle of the overskirt. First you put 3 twill tapes down the back so you can pin them up a touch to give you that puffy feeling. Pin them into place and then hand stitch them to the tapes.
So Now I got the hardware I’m sewing and making the holes for the belt to line of perfectly. After doing this I sewn the other belt straps on.
After placing all the holes where I need them to be. I put grommets in the holes to keep its shape.
Before sewing on the pockets you need to decorate them first. It will be way to hard after they are sewn on the belt.
I didn’t have a big enough pocket to hold my phone so I made my own pattern to hold it for me. Put the snaps on the pocket and top closure and make sure they line up.
Here is the front of the belt. I put different size grommets on the belt from the bottom so later I can hook things I need to later with.
This is the completed back with pockets sewn in place. I will be putting something on the back in that bare spot. Like keys, chains ect.
So I decided to sew a couple of keys on the back and added some chain to the bottom of the holes.
This pattern I used was Simplicity 3677… I really didn’t like this pattern. I feel they made this harder than it should have been .
I’m not really going to how to do this pattern all the way through as I started to change a lot when I got to a certain point.
This coat was made out of woven fabric so it frayed really bad. So I needed to serge every piece.
Remember to iron each seam open
First I started on the pockets and the cuffs each piece of these I lined with a very think interface. I wanted it to be very sturdy and keep its shape.
So I sewn on one side of the interface to one side only.
Also you wanted to sew both right sides together and clip each of the edges to get a smooth line.
With the cuff needed to be very carefully to mark the button pieces very actually to make the sleeves look right. You do all this before you even sew the cuff onto the jacket.
Sew back together then the front which has this really stupid cut out with is round for you breasts. I feel they should have just gave you darts it would have been ten times easier.
Now its time to sew on the cuffs now
Remember the cuffs have to be sewn on a certain way to make sure when you roll the back you see the good side with the button-hole openings.
This pattern was really bad so I had to place the pocket covers over the middle part with they had the cut out at the bottom.
This jacket didn’t have pockets and I always want to make mine with so I had to design how big and deep I needed them to carry things like cell phone and keys.
This coat also didn’t have an inner lining which I hated also due to the arm cuffs you would see the seams and no way to hide the pockets I made also. So I just cut out almost the same pattern and reversed it to go into the coat.
This is the end product but I spent a lot more time than needed to be due to this pattern was really bad. I would have been better off creating a real historical frock coat in the beginning.