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Elizabethan carnival costume

This was a very detail costume. This costume took three months to make, off and on. I used simplicity pattern 8881, this pattern was an easy pattern but I didn’t like how some of the directions on the bodice were telling me to do it.

I changed several things and didn’t put all the boning in the bodice. They didn’t have a piece for the back placket either, which I made my own.

For the hoop it was kind of not big enough for me so I added more length in each hoop pieces, so the cercumfernce was larger.

For the sleeves, I wanted it to be less tight Around my biceps and arm pits, so I cut the inner sleeve out and just used attached the puffy sleeve part to the arm opening.

For this costume I started a while back and only had the sleeves done. It’s been a while and I have gained weight so I needed to take them apart. I needed to give myself more room, plus I needed to making a sleeve lining due to all those pearls being sew on.

image image

Now I hand sewn on each sequence one at a time with a very small bead in the middle.

imageimage

Next iI moved onto the bodice.  The bodice has three layers for the boning to be inserted then sewn in.  It said to put a lot more I decided to only put three in the front and followed the rest on each bodice piece.

imageBack bodice

After that I needed to cut the top layer for the bodice and then baste stitched on. I then used material paint and outlined the pattern. Once this dried I sewn on once again sequence by hand.

Basted top material onimage

I made my own bias tape so it will match my skirt.

image

Once I finished this it started to come together.

 

image

 

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Steampunk Belt 2

This was my own pattern and creation.  This was not easy but I did figure it out.

beltpatterns

 

 

You can see at the bottom left I drew out my pattern for my steam punk leg belt.

 

 

 

 

 

20150615_152851After cutting the material, I needed it to be more stable so I also cut out each piece with an interface and lining.

I sewn each piece to the back of the material.  The material is very slippery due to its faux leather.  It’s a slight stretchy.  So I needed something to help to make it more stable.

addbadssiding

 

Now I made the outside pocket and started sewing the outer sides of the pocket on.  20150615_150740sewliningtogether

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here is started sewing the inner lining for the outside pocket.
placingzip

 

 

 

I decided I wanted to make the top
have an inner pocket also.  So I cut a slit on the top and sewn in a zipper at the top.

 

 

 

sewzipperin

 

 

Here after sewing the zipper in.  I needed to sew the lining that would make a pocket for the inside.

 

 

 

 

 

sewoutsidepocket

 

This is the other side of the outside pocket. I needed to sew this on the outside first before sewing the side of the pocket together.

After doing this to the front side I needed to start decorating the outside of the pocket so the inner lining would hide all the studs.

 

 

 

sewnpocket

 

I then sewn the outer material pocket to the inside pocket. Remember to put it inside out when sewing it on to give you that clean edge.

 

 

 

 

 

sewoneside

 

 

Needed to measure my leg and waste for making the belt part.  Did the same by adding interface material to make it more stable.

 

 

 

 

 

flap

 

 

Before I could sew the top on I started decorating it with studs and rivets.  I needed to do this so then I could line it.  I didn’t want you to see the underside.  This part was fun deciding on how I wanted it to look.

 

 

steampunk2

 

 

Now that the outside of the pocket was done and lined.  It was time to sew the outside together.  This was very challenging due to the bulky outside pocket.  Trying really hard not to catch the pocket when sewing it inside out.

 

 

 

spbelt2

 

 

But before you sew around on the outside you first need to attach the bottom some D-rings and at the top for holding on your side satchel.

 

 

 

 

finishedspbelt2

 

Making the belt strips were pretty easy adding the hooks and rivets to the belting.  This is the finished piece I came up with.  It’s really nice…. and it’s very useful to carry things like your phone and more.

 

 

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Petticoat

This petticoat pattern it quite every easy.  I’m using TV (Truly Victorian) Pattern TV 170.  This pattern has four variations you can use depending on the year.

First cut out all your pattern pieces depending on which year you decided to use.  I then serge each piece to make sure that the material won’t fray.

 

pcsidejpg

 

I then sewn the darts in the front and sewn each of the front pieces together

 

 

 

 

 

 

backpc

 

For the back you take each piece and sew up to the marking and stop.  On each side of the pack you will then fold in the seam on each side down

 

pintuckspc

On the back florence you sew tucks. I actually did to many and later had to take some out.  Best to do small ones and not to many you can always put more in if you need to.PCbasteforgatherssewbacktopintuckpc

 

 

 

Now baste the top of the florence. Next sew it to the bottom of the back .

 

Attach the fluorescence to the back of the two sewn half together. Now you should have an almost completed petticoat.

 

 

 

 

PCruffles

 

The the fun part each piece of the ruffle you need to sew together to make this one very long piece.  When you have that finished.  Start basting and pull to make gathers to fit on the bottom of your petticoat.

 

 

 

 

 

sewonrufle


 

 

Sew the ruffle onto the bottom of the petticoat.

 

 

 

 


Pc3

 

 

Now to add the waistband to the top of the skirt. Make sure you fold it first then fold again to the back inner side.  This will hide the inner edge.

 

 

 

 

PCfinishedwaistebaqnd

 

Waistband is now finished.  Take some string and lace it through the waist band.

 

 

PCfront

 

 

Front of Petticoat
PCside

Side and back without the bustle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

petticoatside petticoatback

 

 

 

Petticoat over bustle.

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Box Pleat Trim

Next need to start adding the bottom pleats and start making the box pleats to go over the top of the bottom peats.

startingboxpleats

 

After you measure each box pleat you then sew down the middle to hold them in place.

 

sewnboxpleats

 

When I get some more time I will show you how I turn this trim into flowers to go on my pleated trim.

 

bottomboxpleats

Here you can see how each one is folded again and again. Each side looks like it has box pleats.  Next I will show you have to turn them into flowers.

Now it’s time to do the fun part.  Let’s make them look like small flowers.

sewstiches

First you will need to only catch only the top layer of the box pleat only. You will weave up and down like a baste stitch together on both sides of the pleat.

pullstitches

 

 

Now pull the thread tight together to bunch up the material  like so.

 

gothroughstitches

 

Now go through both top and bottom and make a knot to keep it together.

 

sewonperal

 

Now you will string on a jew or pearl to your liking and sew in place.  This takes a lot of time but looks very nice once it’s all done.

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August Overskirt Part 2

overskirtiron

 

Now to move on to the waist band. First fold over the top about half In and iron it down.  This will help you get a nice straight line.

 

pinwaistbandover

 

Now fold it again and tuck it under its self like this.  Now you can sew it together.

 

 

plainoverskirt

 

 

 

After completing this I started to sew the ties on the bottom, middle to tie back the front of the over skirt.  As you can see here it’s not yet to my liking.

 

 

 

 

overskirttied

 

 

 

So I added another tie to the back making it three ties to get this effect.

 

 

 

 

Once I got what I liked I started on the pleated trim.

sewstrips

 

I measured everything to the T.

Made sure its all the right size and started ironing the whole line. After you have a nice and flat material.  I start folding in the bottom  and top to make the pleated trim.

 

 

 

 

measuresizeof-trim

 

 

Make sure you measure your fold all the way down and across.  I started with a 4 1/2 in width.  After the fold I will end up with a 3 inch in size.

 

 

 

 

irondownsidespleatsonpleater

 

Now that it has been folded and sewn the bottom of the trim you need to start making your pleats with the pleater.

 

Make sure after ironing you put some tape down to hold your pleats in place before you sew them together.

 

 

tapedpleats

 

Your pleats should look like this after you sew them together and now you can take of the tape.

 

 

sewonpleats

 

 

 

Now it’s time to start pinning the pleats to the bottom of the over skirt.  After I did that I sewn some white trim to give it some accent too.

overskirttrimdone

backofoverskirtbustle

 

 

Now I need to move onto the back bustle of the overskirt.  First you put 3 twill tapes down the back so you can pin them up a touch to give you that puffy feeling.  Pin them into place and then hand stitch them to the tapes.

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Steampunk Belt 1

sewnbuckleson

So Now I got the hardware I’m sewing and making the holes for the belt to line of perfectly.  After doing this I sewn the other belt straps onneedtoaddpockets.

 

 

After placing all the holes where I need them to be.  I put grommets in the holes to keep its shape.

 

 

OnePoket

 

Before sewing on the pockets you need to decorate them first.  It will be way to hard after they are sewn on the belt.

 

 

 

 

largepocket

 

 

I didn’t have a big enough pocket to hold my phone so I made my own pattern to hold it for me.  Put the snaps on the pocket and top closure and make sure they line up.

 

 

alldone

 

Here is the front of the belt.  I put different size grommets on the belt from the bottom so later I can hook things I need to later with.

backbelt

 

This is the completed back with pockets sewn in place.  I will be putting something on the back in that bare spot.  Like keys, chains ect.

steampunkbeltfinished1

 

So I decided to sew a couple of keys on the back and added some chain to the bottom of the holes.

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Pirate Coat

This pattern I used was Simplicity 3677… I really didn’t like this pattern.  I feel they made this harder than it should have been .

I’m not really going to how to do this pattern all the way through as I started to change a lot when I got to a certain point.

jacketmtl

 

This coat was made out of woven fabric so it frayed really bad.  So I needed to serge every piece.

 

 

seamallowance

 

 

 

Remember to iron each seam open

 

 

 

 

 

outsidepocket

First I started on the pockets and the cuffs each piece of these I lined with a very think interface.  I wanted it to be very sturdy and keep its shape.
pocketinterface

 

So I sewn on one side of the interface to one side only.

 

 

 

pocket

 

Also you wanted to sew both right sides together and clip each of the edges to get a smooth line.

 

 

 

piratecuff

 

 

With the cuff needed to be very carefully to mark the button pieces very actually to make the sleeves look right. You do all this before you even sew the cuff onto the jacket.

 

 

 

 

 

frontjacketbackjacketSew back together then the front which has this really stupid cut out with is round for you breasts.  I feel they should have just gave you darts it would have been ten times easier.jacketback

 

addingcuffNow its time to sew on the cuffs now

 

 

 

 

 

 

Remember the cuffs have to be sewn on a certain way to make sure when you roll the  back you see the good side with the button-hole openings.

 

 

 

 

jacketpocket

 

 

 

This pattern was really bad so I had to place the pocket covers over the middle part with they had the cut out at the bottom.

 

 

 

 

insidepocket

 

 

This jacket didn’t have pockets and I always want to make mine with so I had to design how big and deep I needed them to carry things like cell phone and keys.

 

 

 

 

jacketlininhg

 

 

This coat also didn’t have an inner lining which I hated also due to the arm cuffs you would see the seams and no way to hide the pockets I made also.  So I just cut out almost the same pattern and reversed it to go into the coat.
piratejacket

 

 

This is the end product but I spent a lot more time than needed to be due to this pattern was really bad.  I would have been  better off creating a real historical frock coat in the beginning.

 

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French Vest Bodice

1884 French Vest Bodice

This pattern is by Truly Victorian – TV463

Make sure if you are working with a 100% Cotton you wash and dry it before you cut it.

This way it won’t shrink at all on you.  By doing this first you can have a perfect fit.  As always cut out your pattern pieces and serge or use a different stitch to hold the edging from unraveling.  This will give your garment a more cleaner look to itself when finished.

BEFORE I CUT THIS I DID A MARKUP ONE TO ADJUST THE SIZING FOR ME

(use cheap muslin to do the markup it will save you time and your good fabric)

cut

 

 

First you will be cutting all layers.  You will have at least two layers.  One the fashion fabric and the other lining.  For me I decided to have a 3rd.  I felt the cotton muslin was way too limp.  So I decided to use an iron on interfacing.

 

 

 

 

all3layers

 

One Fashion Fabric

Two lining

Three Interfacing

(This will give my material more substance to it.)

 

 

 

 

Iron on all the interfacing to the inside of the white lining.  By doing this you would not see the interfacing at all.

sewfrontside

 

 

This piece is called the side.  I laid out all the pieces and started with the side piece to sew to the Front. Make sure to iron the inner seam on both side to set the seam. Remember to set the seam.

 

rightside

sideback

 

 

After doing this I will sew the side back to the side piece.

 

 

 

 

 

sewallsidestogether

Here I sew all three side pieces together and opened and ironed all seams inside and out.  To get  an accurate size, I used all 1/2″ seams throughout my whole project.  I want to make sure I will get the fit I measured fo

 

Now sew the side back piece to the back and sew the two back pieces together right up through the middle.

ironseams

 

After you sew the backs together it’s time to sew the top of each shoulder fronts to the shoulders backs.

 

hamforironing

You will see it gets harder and harder to open the seams and to iron them.  The are curved and to set in the seams you need a very helpful tool.  Its called a ham, one side is made of cotton and the other side is flannel. You can put a cured edge and iron the seam with no problems now.

sewingfront

 

 

 

Now to sew the Front to the vest part on each side.

 

 

 

 

 

collarpieces
With right sides together, sew Collar lining to collar along the top. Baste the bottom edge of the collar to hold the lining down. After sewing make sure to cut a couple of small notches in the curved areas

 

ironseamcollar

 

Iron seam open and turn it over to iron the other side.

 

 

ironseamopen

 

 

 

Take the long piece of the Collar and find the center by folding it in half.  This will give you the center easily.  Pin it to rights sides together, having the collar on the outside.

 

 

 

outsidecollar

 

 

 

This is how it looks so far.  Use the Ham again to open up the inner seam.

 

 

 

 

collar

 

 

To make things easy for you Iron down about an 1/4″ seam down.  When you fold this over you can now pen in place and sew it to the inside collar.

ironcollarandtuckinside

top

 

Before I go any further I will try this on to see how accurate it really is to my figure.  But I really do need to do it to have all my piece on first… my chemise, corset, bustle, four gore skirt and august overskirt on.  I need to then see how much of a dark in the front that I will need to add to get a more accurate fit.

 

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August Overskirt

The pattern I’m using is by Truly Victorian

1883 August Overskirt – TV365

ironiron

 

Before I get started my material is pretty wrinkled and I want to have a crisp look.  I spray it with light mist of water then iron over it.  Here you can see the difference one side is iron without water the other is.

 

 

sewfrontpanels

 

 

 

Cut out pieces and sew apron front to sides fronts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

foldhemIron hem then pin before you sew it can  give you a cleaner line.

 

 

 

pinhembeforesew

 

 

 

pleatsupward

 

 

Fold pleats in front apron, bringing bottom of pleat mark to meet top of pleat mark.  Baste pleats in place.  Pleats should fold upward on correct side of fabric. Sorry didn’t have a picture with this skirt.

 

 

 

 

Now to create a placket

ironseamplacket

 

Fold back placket in half lengthwise, right sides together.

 

aftersewnplacket

 

Fold placket piece open and press in place

 

 

On the left hand side of skirt, matching raw edges at top and side. I didn’t really like their instructions so I did mine a little different.

leftsideplacket

 

 

After sewing each side of the placket I then sew the side seam up to the top of the placket about an inch past the edge to make it stay in place.  You can see here one of the upper pleats in the apron. From making pervious.

 

 

 

 

sewsideseamdown

 

 

Here you can see the top and bottom of the skirt doesn’t match.  This is because the back is a lot longer due to later I will be making poufs.  I did follow the seam down and folded in to finish the side seam.

 

 

 

 

Now to move on to making the pleats in the back of the skirt.

measureforpleats

 

To get everything just right I measure how long it is.  Depending on how big I want to make my pleats I make sure to find the middle first.

 

centerpleat

For the center pleat I make it each side half of the original size lets say an inch. so each side is half-inch which is brought in from under side. By doing this you give a center point and each side of pleats have a right direction and a left direction. Make sure to pin it a couple of places.

foldoingofpleat

 

Showing you half pleat how it’s tucked under itself.

 

measure

 

Now for each pleat I measure it to be the same size for.  I’m working on the right direction. Pin and Iron it helps so much.  It hard to get a nice line but due to these strips it help me a lot to get a nice line to follow.

rightsidepleates

 

Finish with the right side you can see all the pleats are going the right direction.

 

 

pleatspinning

 

Now I’m taking my pleat to gather from the left side to tuck under. You should  follow the same direction and measuring each one.

readytobaste

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally finished Look how you can see the middle pleat that sits on the top and the others right and left follow that direction of the pleat.

 

sewdown

 

 

Now its time to baste them in place.  You want to go slow.  The can move and come untucked so slow and moved pins out one at a time.

 

 

 

 

 

completedpleats

 

Now they are basted I sprayed some water on them and iron the heck out of them so the pleats will set in good. Once I’m happy with the way the look I will sew them for good.

 

waistbandiron

 

 

Once both sides are sewn and back is all pleated you can sew on the waist band.

Make sure to leave about 1/2″ on each side over the edge of skirt for later closing.

 

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