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Moving on to the chemise it shouldn’t be too hard…right.   At first I thought so but now…I look back and I don’t think so but during I thought the yoke was going to choke me at first.

yoketopAfter I sewn the yoke piece together I then did the edging so it wouldn’t fray.  Well not with my serger, not yet.  I sure do miss it, it’s really hard on your machine to do so much yardage.

chemiseAfter I sewn most of this together I need to do pin tucks again.  One it does help with taking some of the yardage up.  It also give it more of the period time frame that they did back then.







Onceaddlace I did those I decided to add lace to the bottom.  To make it more of a nice edge with the lace I sewn the seam once then put the lace up side down…I know what upside down…. but when you fold it over and sew it down, it give you such a nice crisp and tailored look. Then your lace will be showing the correct way once you iron it down.


I’m almost done just to add some more lace to the upper portion to the chemise and I will be ready to start the bustle.



1870-chemise chemise-top

Here is the finished look.  It was quite plain on the front so I decided to sew two pieces of lace together and add it to the front.


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This is my very first historical project, I’m sewing.  Im going to use the correct material for that time period.  I’m using 100% white cotton bleached muslin.  First I cut all my pattern pieces out by blue moon patterns. They carry original patterns for that time period I need.


First I’m sewing the edging so the material won’t fray.  I was lazy and didn’t get my serger out this time but for the bustle I will get that started so my stuff looks more professional.

seamAfter I sewn the seam make sure to iron it down to give you a cleaner edge on the other side.  When you do this it really shows you how straight of a line you really did.

flatseam What an ironing job looks like after you set the seam in.  It really makes it so crisp and clean. The lines in your work will set the seam in the correct manner in the material.





openbreachesAfter sewing in the pin tucks on the bottom portion of the pant legs; which I did the old fashion way.  Boy that wasn’t too bad to do.  I added some flat lace around the bottom edge to give it some prettiness to it.

Before you sew it on the waistband I sewed bias tape to the outer leg which make them for open drawers.  I know open drawers you say…. Well I have learned a lot the past year about corsets.

Very hard to take on and off one be yourself and two when your in full costume.  Now I understand why they had these back then.  This is going to be an adventure for sure with this costume when I’m done.


opendrawersNow to finish the waistband and put the cord in.

These were very easy to make couple of hours and I finished them.

drawersThey don’t look that pretty on the form we shall see how I will like them later. Now time to move on to the chemise.

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Started Mermaid Costume

I have had some ideas what I wanted to do along time ago on this costume.  Just never got around to doing it. Well I finally got the opportunity to do it now.

I bought some material awhile back for this costume that I have been saving for with many ideas.

I used some of the pattern my Little Mermaid Disney Princess Costume, McCalls 5498.  I changed it to my liking and added things from my vision to make it my own.

First had to cut all the pieces out. The  blue scale like material did not have any stretch to it.  Which made it quite difficult for the look that I wanted. The material was a netting with the shiny foil like scales so pulled apart it would run the netting. Which was way bad, plus you could see through it also.  I decided to line it with white cotton. one to hold it into place and you wouldn’t be able to see through it now.

I also needed to sew the edges so it wouldn’t run either.

For the my tail I wanted some contrast color so I did purple.  This material was to light and was stretchy and I needed more substance.


So I found this netting with glitter in it to one give it substance and flash at the same time.






It was quite a challenge to get it to lay right and sew it on.

I sewn this on several time and rolled the hem also to make it have a little weight on the bottom hem.






Next I needed figure out how can I walk in it normal but also look like a mermaid tail.  I came up with an idea of using Tulle underneath the tail.

Tulle what a chore to work with, especially when you have so much of it in such a small space.  I used 14 yards of it, I made lots of layers and then basted it all together.  One for each side and then a smaller one in the back.  It was so much I had to sew it on by hand to get it placed just so.


After sewing it by hand I decided to also sew it with the machine to make sure it was really attached well.






Now I needed to make sure that the tulle would fall it the right places and not drag on the ground.  So I put it on my body form and cut it to the correct length.




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Welcome to the start of my costume blog… please be patient with me.  I just started this blog and I’m learning wordpress in the process of this blog.  Im a Artist not a writer, so please keep that in mind.

Thanks, Dawn

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