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Part 3 Victorian Corset

sewendsafterboning

 

Now its time to sew the bottom of the corset to start putting boning in.

 

 

 

addboning

 

For this corset I did some research and I felt I didn’t have enough boning. I wanted more support for the bust area.

Make sure you measure correctly for the boning. You  don’t want them to be too long as you need to have room for the top bias to cover the edges. Better to be to short then to long.

 

 

 

pinbiastoupperlower

I used double fold bias tape.  You can make your own if you like. Now I pinned the bias tape on the edges and make sure to line it up correctly with the edges.

You’re going to want to make sure you get the bias tape in the first fold in line with the edge of the sewonbiasinditchmaterial.  It’s about 1/4″ from the edge and try not to hit any boning.

Here you can see I stitched right on the first fold and let me tell you that boning moves on you at times. I broke 2 needles… little bugger.

sewingribbonThis pattern calls for adding a ribbon to the top of the corset.  I wanted to try this; so it will hug my top part better.  Before you sew the bias tape down on the other side, you place the ribbon at the end and I cupped it on both side of the corset and sewn back and forth on both sides of the ribbon. Going through front, corset material and back of the ribbon. I wanted to make sure it wouldn’t ever break.

laceribbionThis is how it looks on the front side after pinning the bias tape down on the other side.  I know you can see the pink ribbon color coming through.  It’s fine for me I will be decorating later and it will bastbiasdownsmwhipsgticheshave embroidery to match.

To make sure I get everything even and placed right. I basted the bias tape down on the inside.  I did it in another color, so it will be easy to see it when I take it out after I sew it with white.

To make sure you don’t see the stitches I sew it by hand with a whip stitch small as possible.  Boy this was a lot of work.  But well worth it, it looks so clean on the front.

 

 

 

markholepacement

 

Before you start putting in your rivets, make sure you use a ruler to measure each rivets placement and mark it about an inch apart.  Depending on how many rivets you want.  The more you have the better. This way it will distribute the stress on the corset evenly throughout.  You can see I used a pen to place my rivets holes.

 

 

 

 

rivettools

 

I bought a rivet tool kit and let me tell you its worth every penny. They aren’t that much but well worth it.  I have done rivets without it before and its hard and they don’t come out as nice.

holecutter

 

This is the tool to make the hole for the rivets they give you some wood to put behind it as it cut the material out.  Couple hits with the hammer.

 

holepunched

 

 

Look how nice and even this hole is after using this punching tool. You don’t even have to hit the hammer really that hard.  It comes out so nice and clean.

 

 

 

 

rivettool

 

After making the hole you put the rivet with the long inner shank through the hole.  Place the top rivet on it.  It it a couple of time and its set.  What a great tool.

 

rivetsdone

 

 

Here is the back all finished riveted.  Now lace it up and you’re ready to try it on.

 

finishedcorset

 

 

I had to tie it in the front due to I put this on by myself.  Now its time to decorate it.

 

 

 

 

corsetwtrim

 

 

I added the white and pink trim by hand.  Next I will be flossing it with embroidery threadcorsetpinktrim

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Petticoat with Wire Bustle

Today I worked on my Petticoat with Wire Bustle 1870’s and 1880’s which will support those styles of bustle dresses. This pattern is by Truly Victorian.  TV-101

I’m really excited to work on this pattern as its based on an actual garment as seen in Harper’s Bazaar magazine.  This pattern that I’m sewing will be easy for storage because it folds down flat.

These directions were quite easy to follow.  I bought theses from Truly Victorian.  The have a nice collection to choose from.

First I serge all my edges on all of my pattern pieces before i started sewing my seams.

serger-edges

With each seam I made sure I ironed each and everyone.  I thought I would post a picture of one that wasn’t ironed her below so you can see the difference.

normalseam

 

 

What a big difference when you don’t set the seam.

 

 

 

On the bustle part I pinned bias tape to the upper bustle part.  Trying very hard to give them a straight line as possible.

pinbiatapesewingbias 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

finishedbiaschannel

 

 

One completed channel sewn

 

 

sewncouplechannels

 

 

I have two lines done

 

 

topbustlehoop

 

Now finished sewing all three channels that go across the bustle.

 

other-side-channel

 

 

For this channel it’s sewn at a diagonally part way.  You only sew up and back and leave the top open.

forthchannel

 

 

 

At the top of  channel one I sewn another open channel over the first channel. Be very careful not to sew closed the bottom channel.hoopboning

 

 

Here is the boning I cut to the correct length from the pattern instructions. Don’t put these in just yet.  I will be making the

 

flourencepattern

 

 

Now moving on to the florence. This you will need to sew each of the pieces together.

 

 

Ironingseam

 

 

Remember to iron the seams down.  I bought this little iron and I just love it.  It’s just made for ironing down seams.  Nice not to have to brag out the big iron all the time.

 

 

 

 

gatherflourence

 

Now I need to baste the top of the florence to fit it to the front and back bustle. Due to all the material and its weight.  I decided to double pin both directions to keep the gathers in the right about all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

sewgathersontopskirt

 

 

Little by little I would sew slowly and take pins out when you come to them. This really helped me keep my gathers more even all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

finished

 

This is what it looks like sewn on.  Make sure to take out your basting stitches.  It will look a lot better if you do.

 

 

 

 

 

sewnonflource

 

 

Now the material will fall more even by taking out the extra stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

sewingonwaistband

 

 

Moving on to the top portion of the bustle to add the waistband.  Before sewing it on you need to baste the upper top to fit your waist size.

 

 

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Chemise

Moving on to the chemise it shouldn’t be too hard…right.   At first I thought so but now…I look back and I don’t think so but during I thought the yoke was going to choke me at first.

yoketopAfter I sewn the yoke piece together I then did the edging so it wouldn’t fray.  Well not with my serger, not yet.  I sure do miss it, it’s really hard on your machine to do so much yardage.

chemiseAfter I sewn most of this together I need to do pin tucks again.  One it does help with taking some of the yardage up.  It also give it more of the period time frame that they did back then.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Onceaddlace I did those I decided to add lace to the bottom.  To make it more of a nice edge with the lace I sewn the seam once then put the lace up side down…I know what upside down…. but when you fold it over and sew it down, it give you such a nice crisp and tailored look. Then your lace will be showing the correct way once you iron it down.

 

I’m almost done just to add some more lace to the upper portion to the chemise and I will be ready to start the bustle.

 

 

1870-chemise chemise-top

Here is the finished look.  It was quite plain on the front so I decided to sew two pieces of lace together and add it to the front.

 

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Drawers

This is my very first historical project, I’m sewing.  Im going to use the correct material for that time period.  I’m using 100% white cotton bleached muslin.  First I cut all my pattern pieces out by blue moon patterns. They carry original patterns for that time period I need.

sewingedge

First I’m sewing the edging so the material won’t fray.  I was lazy and didn’t get my serger out this time but for the bustle I will get that started so my stuff looks more professional.

seamAfter I sewn the seam make sure to iron it down to give you a cleaner edge on the other side.  When you do this it really shows you how straight of a line you really did.

flatseam What an ironing job looks like after you set the seam in.  It really makes it so crisp and clean. The lines in your work will set the seam in the correct manner in the material.

 

 

 

 

openbreachesAfter sewing in the pin tucks on the bottom portion of the pant legs; which I did the old fashion way.  Boy that wasn’t too bad to do.  I added some flat lace around the bottom edge to give it some prettiness to it.

Before you sew it on the waistband I sewed bias tape to the outer leg which make them for open drawers.  I know open drawers you say…. Well I have learned a lot the past year about corsets.

Very hard to take on and off one be yourself and two when your in full costume.  Now I understand why they had these back then.  This is going to be an adventure for sure with this costume when I’m done.

 

opendrawersNow to finish the waistband and put the cord in.

These were very easy to make couple of hours and I finished them.

drawersThey don’t look that pretty on the form we shall see how I will like them later. Now time to move on to the chemise.

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