Today I worked on my Petticoat with Wire Bustle 1870’s and 1880’s which will support those styles of bustle dresses. This pattern is by Truly Victorian. TV-101
I’m really excited to work on this pattern as its based on an actual garment as seen in Harper’s Bazaar magazine. This pattern that I’m sewing will be easy for storage because it folds down flat.
These directions were quite easy to follow. I bought theses from Truly Victorian. The have a nice collection to choose from.
First I serge all my edges on all of my pattern pieces before i started sewing my seams.
With each seam I made sure I ironed each and everyone. I thought I would post a picture of one that wasn’t ironed her below so you can see the difference.
What a big difference when you don’t set the seam.
On the bustle part I pinned bias tape to the upper bustle part. Trying very hard to give them a straight line as possible.
One completed channel sewn
I have two lines done
Now finished sewing all three channels that go across the bustle.
For this channel it’s sewn at a diagonally part way. You only sew up and back and leave the top open.
At the top of channel one I sewn another open channel over the first channel. Be very careful not to sew closed the bottom channel.
Here is the boning I cut to the correct length from the pattern instructions. Don’t put these in just yet. I will be making the
Now moving on to the florence. This you will need to sew each of the pieces together.
Remember to iron the seams down. I bought this little iron and I just love it. It’s just made for ironing down seams. Nice not to have to brag out the big iron all the time.
Now I need to baste the top of the florence to fit it to the front and back bustle. Due to all the material and its weight. I decided to double pin both directions to keep the gathers in the right about all the way around.
Little by little I would sew slowly and take pins out when you come to them. This really helped me keep my gathers more even all the way around.
This is what it looks like sewn on. Make sure to take out your basting stitches. It will look a lot better if you do.
Now the material will fall more even by taking out the extra stitches.
Moving on to the top portion of the bustle to add the waistband. Before sewing it on you need to baste the upper top to fit your waist size.