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Part 3 Victorian Corset

sewendsafterboning

 

Now its time to sew the bottom of the corset to start putting boning in.

 

 

 

addboning

 

For this corset I did some research and I felt I didn’t have enough boning. I wanted more support for the bust area.

Make sure you measure correctly for the boning. You  don’t want them to be too long as you need to have room for the top bias to cover the edges. Better to be to short then to long.

 

 

 

pinbiastoupperlower

I used double fold bias tape.  You can make your own if you like. Now I pinned the bias tape on the edges and make sure to line it up correctly with the edges.

You’re going to want to make sure you get the bias tape in the first fold in line with the edge of the sewonbiasinditchmaterial.  It’s about 1/4″ from the edge and try not to hit any boning.

Here you can see I stitched right on the first fold and let me tell you that boning moves on you at times. I broke 2 needles… little bugger.

sewingribbonThis pattern calls for adding a ribbon to the top of the corset.  I wanted to try this; so it will hug my top part better.  Before you sew the bias tape down on the other side, you place the ribbon at the end and I cupped it on both side of the corset and sewn back and forth on both sides of the ribbon. Going through front, corset material and back of the ribbon. I wanted to make sure it wouldn’t ever break.

laceribbionThis is how it looks on the front side after pinning the bias tape down on the other side.  I know you can see the pink ribbon color coming through.  It’s fine for me I will be decorating later and it will bastbiasdownsmwhipsgticheshave embroidery to match.

To make sure I get everything even and placed right. I basted the bias tape down on the inside.  I did it in another color, so it will be easy to see it when I take it out after I sew it with white.

To make sure you don’t see the stitches I sew it by hand with a whip stitch small as possible.  Boy this was a lot of work.  But well worth it, it looks so clean on the front.

 

 

 

markholepacement

 

Before you start putting in your rivets, make sure you use a ruler to measure each rivets placement and mark it about an inch apart.  Depending on how many rivets you want.  The more you have the better. This way it will distribute the stress on the corset evenly throughout.  You can see I used a pen to place my rivets holes.

 

 

 

 

rivettools

 

I bought a rivet tool kit and let me tell you its worth every penny. They aren’t that much but well worth it.  I have done rivets without it before and its hard and they don’t come out as nice.

holecutter

 

This is the tool to make the hole for the rivets they give you some wood to put behind it as it cut the material out.  Couple hits with the hammer.

 

holepunched

 

 

Look how nice and even this hole is after using this punching tool. You don’t even have to hit the hammer really that hard.  It comes out so nice and clean.

 

 

 

 

rivettool

 

After making the hole you put the rivet with the long inner shank through the hole.  Place the top rivet on it.  It it a couple of time and its set.  What a great tool.

 

rivetsdone

 

 

Here is the back all finished riveted.  Now lace it up and you’re ready to try it on.

 

finishedcorset

 

 

I had to tie it in the front due to I put this on by myself.  Now its time to decorate it.

 

 

 

 

corsetwtrim

 

 

I added the white and pink trim by hand.  Next I will be flossing it with embroidery threadcorsetpinktrim

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Victorian Corset

Started my Victorian Bust-Core Corset.  This is what the use to wear in the 1840 -1890’s.  I’m working on this interesting pattern.  I’m truly trying to get the correct silhouette For my historical bustle dress.  I have read a lot of information about this time frame and it’s important to get the correct silhouette underneath your garment so it will look and hold the dress actuality.

sewpanels

First I had to cut all the items of the material.  One is the coutil, one is the lining and the last one is the fashion fabric. Which will be showing on the outside. I made sure I serged each piece before I started sewing them together.  Make sure to number the pieces first.  Its very easy to get them mixed up with one another.

 

 

 

 

sewingcorset1

 

 

 

I found out the hard way and once I figured it out I numbers all three material to then sew them in a assembly line.

 

 

 

 

sewingcorset

 

 

 

Then you need to make sure each piece will fit the other piece, the best it can. Take your time and make sure you get it all correct.

 

 

 

 

completecorsetpanelOnce you have all pieces sewn together this is call a panel now. Now you need to iron the seams open then due to the curves in the corset you’re going to have  to use a pressing ham which will make is so much easier to have it bend but at the same time iron a nice seam.

 

 

corset

 

You can see here that each seam is pressed open but before you can do this; you need to cut small cuts at the edge of the material to give the material some give to the sharpness of each seams. DO NOT CUT TO CLOSE TO THE SEAM.

 

corsetsnips

 

 

 

By doing this it will help with the seam so it won’t pucker.  After cutting each area that pulls on the seam make sure to seam press again and a again to get it just right.

 

 

 

bastechanels

 

After clipping and ironing down the seams I decided to baste down my side seams down. This will help later when I add the boning to each seam.

 

 

setupbuskNext you will add one of the other lining panel to your your main fabric of contil.    First lay it down on the corset and pin it very well eventually  and mark it with a pen or pencil very lightly.

corsetsewmarksoutlinebuskHere you can see my marking where I’m going to have to sew and stop at one line and pick up the foot and needle to put back down on the start of the next hole.

Dont forget to go back and forth with your sewing machine to make each opening that much stronger on the edges.  In this picture you can see where I sewn and stopped for the busk to slide in.

 

 

 

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