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Petticoat with Wire Bustle

Today I worked on my Petticoat with Wire Bustle 1870’s and 1880’s which will support those styles of bustle dresses. This pattern is by Truly Victorian.  TV-101

I’m really excited to work on this pattern as its based on an actual garment as seen in Harper’s Bazaar magazine.  This pattern that I’m sewing will be easy for storage because it folds down flat.

These directions were quite easy to follow.  I bought theses from Truly Victorian.  The have a nice collection to choose from.

First I serge all my edges on all of my pattern pieces before i started sewing my seams.

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With each seam I made sure I ironed each and everyone.  I thought I would post a picture of one that wasn’t ironed her below so you can see the difference.

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What a big difference when you don’t set the seam.

 

 

 

On the bustle part I pinned bias tape to the upper bustle part.  Trying very hard to give them a straight line as possible.

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One completed channel sewn

 

 

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I have two lines done

 

 

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Now finished sewing all three channels that go across the bustle.

 

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For this channel it’s sewn at a diagonally part way.  You only sew up and back and leave the top open.

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At the top of  channel one I sewn another open channel over the first channel. Be very careful not to sew closed the bottom channel.hoopboning

 

 

Here is the boning I cut to the correct length from the pattern instructions. Don’t put these in just yet.  I will be making the

 

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Now moving on to the florence. This you will need to sew each of the pieces together.

 

 

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Remember to iron the seams down.  I bought this little iron and I just love it.  It’s just made for ironing down seams.  Nice not to have to brag out the big iron all the time.

 

 

 

 

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Now I need to baste the top of the florence to fit it to the front and back bustle. Due to all the material and its weight.  I decided to double pin both directions to keep the gathers in the right about all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

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Little by little I would sew slowly and take pins out when you come to them. This really helped me keep my gathers more even all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

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This is what it looks like sewn on.  Make sure to take out your basting stitches.  It will look a lot better if you do.

 

 

 

 

 

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Now the material will fall more even by taking out the extra stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

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Moving on to the top portion of the bustle to add the waistband.  Before sewing it on you need to baste the upper top to fit your waist size.

 

 

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Chemise

Moving on to the chemise it shouldn’t be too hard…right.   At first I thought so but now…I look back and I don’t think so but during I thought the yoke was going to choke me at first.

yoketopAfter I sewn the yoke piece together I then did the edging so it wouldn’t fray.  Well not with my serger, not yet.  I sure do miss it, it’s really hard on your machine to do so much yardage.

chemiseAfter I sewn most of this together I need to do pin tucks again.  One it does help with taking some of the yardage up.  It also give it more of the period time frame that they did back then.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Onceaddlace I did those I decided to add lace to the bottom.  To make it more of a nice edge with the lace I sewn the seam once then put the lace up side down…I know what upside down…. but when you fold it over and sew it down, it give you such a nice crisp and tailored look. Then your lace will be showing the correct way once you iron it down.

 

I’m almost done just to add some more lace to the upper portion to the chemise and I will be ready to start the bustle.

 

 

1870-chemise chemise-top

Here is the finished look.  It was quite plain on the front so I decided to sew two pieces of lace together and add it to the front.

 

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Started Mermaid Costume

I have had some ideas what I wanted to do along time ago on this costume.  Just never got around to doing it. Well I finally got the opportunity to do it now.

I bought some material awhile back for this costume that I have been saving for with many ideas.

I used some of the pattern my Little Mermaid Disney Princess Costume, McCalls 5498.  I changed it to my liking and added things from my vision to make it my own.

First had to cut all the pieces out. The  blue scale like material did not have any stretch to it.  Which made it quite difficult for the look that I wanted. The material was a netting with the shiny foil like scales so pulled apart it would run the netting. Which was way bad, plus you could see through it also.  I decided to line it with white cotton. one to hold it into place and you wouldn’t be able to see through it now.

I also needed to sew the edges so it wouldn’t run either.

For the my tail I wanted some contrast color so I did purple.  This material was to light and was stretchy and I needed more substance.

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So I found this netting with glitter in it to one give it substance and flash at the same time.

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It was quite a challenge to get it to lay right and sew it on.

I sewn this on several time and rolled the hem also to make it have a little weight on the bottom hem.

 

 

 

 

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Next I needed figure out how can I walk in it normal but also look like a mermaid tail.  I came up with an idea of using Tulle underneath the tail.

Tulle what a chore to work with, especially when you have so much of it in such a small space.  I used 14 yards of it, I made lots of layers and then basted it all together.  One for each side and then a smaller one in the back.  It was so much I had to sew it on by hand to get it placed just so.

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After sewing it by hand I decided to also sew it with the machine to make sure it was really attached well.

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Now I needed to make sure that the tulle would fall it the right places and not drag on the ground.  So I put it on my body form and cut it to the correct length.

 

 

 

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