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Petticoat

This petticoat pattern it quite every easy.  I’m using TV (Truly Victorian) Pattern TV 170.  This pattern has four variations you can use depending on the year.

First cut out all your pattern pieces depending on which year you decided to use.  I then serge each piece to make sure that the material won’t fray.

 

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I then sewn the darts in the front and sewn each of the front pieces together

 

 

 

 

 

 

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For the back you take each piece and sew up to the marking and stop.  On each side of the pack you will then fold in the seam on each side down

 

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On the back florence you sew tucks. I actually did to many and later had to take some out.  Best to do small ones and not to many you can always put more in if you need to.PCbasteforgatherssewbacktopintuckpc

 

 

 

Now baste the top of the florence. Next sew it to the bottom of the back .

 

Attach the fluorescence to the back of the two sewn half together. Now you should have an almost completed petticoat.

 

 

 

 

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The the fun part each piece of the ruffle you need to sew together to make this one very long piece.  When you have that finished.  Start basting and pull to make gathers to fit on the bottom of your petticoat.

 

 

 

 

 

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Sew the ruffle onto the bottom of the petticoat.

 

 

 

 


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Now to add the waistband to the top of the skirt. Make sure you fold it first then fold again to the back inner side.  This will hide the inner edge.

 

 

 

 

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Waistband is now finished.  Take some string and lace it through the waist band.

 

 

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Front of Petticoat
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Side and back without the bustle

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Petticoat over bustle.

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Petticoat

The other day I got my material in so I hurried and wash it before use. This is a good thing to do especially with cotton, due to it shrinks.  This way once you fit it exactly to your body, it won’t shrink at all.

I started cutting my overlay pattern with all the ruffles.startoverly

 

I did a overlock from my serger on all the edges.  Looks quite nice.  After I did each piece I sewn the overlay together.

 

 

 

 

 

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All the ruffles I did to.. it takes time but looks nice.

 

 

 

After doing each piece i had to hem one side of the ruffles.  I decided to iron the hem down first before I sewn it.  It went pretty fast when I did it that way. You should start at the bottom and work your way to the top when you start to sew the ruffles on.  By doing it this way, it will help you to not get the previous ruffle in the way as you sew.

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After I gather each ruffle. I made sure the gathers looked right before I sew it down. For doing this I measured each row from the bottom up, and kept them all the same height from one another.measurerows

I wanted the ruffles to be accurate for each row and to look proportioned correctly from another. By doing this, it will make all my ruffles be accurate to each and every row.

It took a lot of time but it does look quite nice now.

 

 

 

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It’s finally finish and looking pretty good with the ruffle tiers in place. Now I need to sew each and every row ends to the overlay itself.

This is a really good idea, this will make the material have more of a curve, which will help to support the skirt.  If you would have left it alone, the weight of the skirt would push it down and would make your outer skirt look flat.

 

 

 

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You can see here by doing this it give it the material a slight curve to it, which will help support the weight for the skirt.

 

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After making your overlay it needs to be added to the bustle skirt.  This was a chore due to you have your boning already in.

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I still made it work, I really didn’t want to sew this by hand.  Once this was on I fitted to my form.  Its kind of heavy it’s pulling on the form.

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Finishing Petticoat with Wire Bustle

For the bustle it’s time to put the boning in.  This was a challenge for me.  I followed the directions but man there has to be a better way.  They tell you to leave an opening to slide it in and then go back and hand sew it.  The first one was a mess. I notice you need to leave a bigger opening and slide it in one side and then slide the other end in… by doing this you will have a bow on the outside of the boning and slide it in carefully without ripping your casting. Then slide it down the channel.

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Next you need to sew at each end of the channels some cord.  This is for a collapsible bustle which is quite nice. They are big and this way they won’t take up to much of your closets space.  You can see the ties I used was not cotton it was synthetic so I could burn the ends, this way they wouldn’t fray.

 

 

 

 

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This is what it looks like inside the bustle after you tie them together. Really cool pattern.

 

 

 

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Here is the bustle finally done.. I will need to go back andsidebustle determine the length of the hem I will need.  This is a back view and a side view the silhouette is great. Now onto the petticoat.

 

 

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Petticoat with Wire Bustle

Today I worked on my Petticoat with Wire Bustle 1870’s and 1880’s which will support those styles of bustle dresses. This pattern is by Truly Victorian.  TV-101

I’m really excited to work on this pattern as its based on an actual garment as seen in Harper’s Bazaar magazine.  This pattern that I’m sewing will be easy for storage because it folds down flat.

These directions were quite easy to follow.  I bought theses from Truly Victorian.  The have a nice collection to choose from.

First I serge all my edges on all of my pattern pieces before i started sewing my seams.

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With each seam I made sure I ironed each and everyone.  I thought I would post a picture of one that wasn’t ironed her below so you can see the difference.

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What a big difference when you don’t set the seam.

 

 

 

On the bustle part I pinned bias tape to the upper bustle part.  Trying very hard to give them a straight line as possible.

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One completed channel sewn

 

 

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I have two lines done

 

 

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Now finished sewing all three channels that go across the bustle.

 

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For this channel it’s sewn at a diagonally part way.  You only sew up and back and leave the top open.

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At the top of  channel one I sewn another open channel over the first channel. Be very careful not to sew closed the bottom channel.hoopboning

 

 

Here is the boning I cut to the correct length from the pattern instructions. Don’t put these in just yet.  I will be making the

 

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Now moving on to the florence. This you will need to sew each of the pieces together.

 

 

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Remember to iron the seams down.  I bought this little iron and I just love it.  It’s just made for ironing down seams.  Nice not to have to brag out the big iron all the time.

 

 

 

 

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Now I need to baste the top of the florence to fit it to the front and back bustle. Due to all the material and its weight.  I decided to double pin both directions to keep the gathers in the right about all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

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Little by little I would sew slowly and take pins out when you come to them. This really helped me keep my gathers more even all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

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This is what it looks like sewn on.  Make sure to take out your basting stitches.  It will look a lot better if you do.

 

 

 

 

 

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Now the material will fall more even by taking out the extra stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

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Moving on to the top portion of the bustle to add the waistband.  Before sewing it on you need to baste the upper top to fit your waist size.

 

 

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