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August Overskirt Part 2

overskirtiron

 

Now to move on to the waist band. First fold over the top about half In and iron it down.  This will help you get a nice straight line.

 

pinwaistbandover

 

Now fold it again and tuck it under its self like this.  Now you can sew it together.

 

 

plainoverskirt

 

 

 

After completing this I started to sew the ties on the bottom, middle to tie back the front of the over skirt.  As you can see here it’s not yet to my liking.

 

 

 

 

overskirttied

 

 

 

So I added another tie to the back making it three ties to get this effect.

 

 

 

 

Once I got what I liked I started on the pleated trim.

sewstrips

 

I measured everything to the T.

Made sure its all the right size and started ironing the whole line. After you have a nice and flat material.  I start folding in the bottom  and top to make the pleated trim.

 

 

 

 

measuresizeof-trim

 

 

Make sure you measure your fold all the way down and across.  I started with a 4 1/2 in width.  After the fold I will end up with a 3 inch in size.

 

 

 

 

irondownsidespleatsonpleater

 

Now that it has been folded and sewn the bottom of the trim you need to start making your pleats with the pleater.

 

Make sure after ironing you put some tape down to hold your pleats in place before you sew them together.

 

 

tapedpleats

 

Your pleats should look like this after you sew them together and now you can take of the tape.

 

 

sewonpleats

 

 

 

Now it’s time to start pinning the pleats to the bottom of the over skirt.  After I did that I sewn some white trim to give it some accent too.

overskirttrimdone

backofoverskirtbustle

 

 

Now I need to move onto the back bustle of the overskirt.  First you put 3 twill tapes down the back so you can pin them up a touch to give you that puffy feeling.  Pin them into place and then hand stitch them to the tapes.

Open post

August Overskirt

The pattern I’m using is by Truly Victorian

1883 August Overskirt – TV365

ironiron

 

Before I get started my material is pretty wrinkled and I want to have a crisp look.  I spray it with light mist of water then iron over it.  Here you can see the difference one side is iron without water the other is.

 

 

sewfrontpanels

 

 

 

Cut out pieces and sew apron front to sides fronts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

foldhemIron hem then pin before you sew it can  give you a cleaner line.

 

 

 

pinhembeforesew

 

 

 

pleatsupward

 

 

Fold pleats in front apron, bringing bottom of pleat mark to meet top of pleat mark.  Baste pleats in place.  Pleats should fold upward on correct side of fabric. Sorry didn’t have a picture with this skirt.

 

 

 

 

Now to create a placket

ironseamplacket

 

Fold back placket in half lengthwise, right sides together.

 

aftersewnplacket

 

Fold placket piece open and press in place

 

 

On the left hand side of skirt, matching raw edges at top and side. I didn’t really like their instructions so I did mine a little different.

leftsideplacket

 

 

After sewing each side of the placket I then sew the side seam up to the top of the placket about an inch past the edge to make it stay in place.  You can see here one of the upper pleats in the apron. From making pervious.

 

 

 

 

sewsideseamdown

 

 

Here you can see the top and bottom of the skirt doesn’t match.  This is because the back is a lot longer due to later I will be making poufs.  I did follow the seam down and folded in to finish the side seam.

 

 

 

 

Now to move on to making the pleats in the back of the skirt.

measureforpleats

 

To get everything just right I measure how long it is.  Depending on how big I want to make my pleats I make sure to find the middle first.

 

centerpleat

For the center pleat I make it each side half of the original size lets say an inch. so each side is half-inch which is brought in from under side. By doing this you give a center point and each side of pleats have a right direction and a left direction. Make sure to pin it a couple of places.

foldoingofpleat

 

Showing you half pleat how it’s tucked under itself.

 

measure

 

Now for each pleat I measure it to be the same size for.  I’m working on the right direction. Pin and Iron it helps so much.  It hard to get a nice line but due to these strips it help me a lot to get a nice line to follow.

rightsidepleates

 

Finish with the right side you can see all the pleats are going the right direction.

 

 

pleatspinning

 

Now I’m taking my pleat to gather from the left side to tuck under. You should  follow the same direction and measuring each one.

readytobaste

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally finished Look how you can see the middle pleat that sits on the top and the others right and left follow that direction of the pleat.

 

sewdown

 

 

Now its time to baste them in place.  You want to go slow.  The can move and come untucked so slow and moved pins out one at a time.

 

 

 

 

 

completedpleats

 

Now they are basted I sprayed some water on them and iron the heck out of them so the pleats will set in good. Once I’m happy with the way the look I will sew them for good.

 

waistbandiron

 

 

Once both sides are sewn and back is all pleated you can sew on the waist band.

Make sure to leave about 1/2″ on each side over the edge of skirt for later closing.

 

Open post

Four-Gore Underskirt

This pattern is from Truly Victorian TV261-R

It’s a 1885  Four-Gore Underskirt

Make sure if you are working with a 100% Cotton you wash and dry it before you cut it.  This way it won’t shrink at all and you can make it fit you perfectly.  As always cut out your pattern pieces and serge or use a different stitch to hold the edging from unraveling.

For the front piece make to darts and iron to the inside.

dartsinfront

Depending on which style you like to do for this skirt it can be with a bustle or not.  You have an Optional Bouffant if you like.  I will show you how to do this but I’m not going to make mine this way.  Just showing you if you like to.

pleatsupward

 

First sew darts into front and sides on the panels of the skirt shown here. Pinning them in place make sure it hang correctly.  Make sure the darts face toward the back.

 

 

 

 

 

ironseam

 

Sew back to sides and remember to iron your seams open

On the left side, end seam 8 to 9″ from waist and back-stitch.  to form a packet by turning open edge under 1/2″ and top stitch down.

Now you need to either gather back with a baste stitch or make pleats in the back.  (I will show you later)

You will sewn waistband on skirt and leave a 1″ on both sides at the placket flat.

skirttwilltape

 

After doing this you will cut 3 tapes approx. 20″ long.  hand stitch tapes to waistband, one at the center back and one at waist side, half way between center back side seam.

 

 

bustleYou will pin back to the tapes were indicated on pattern, so that each mark is lifted 6″ up the tape. Adjust pouf to personal preference.  Hand stitch in desired location.  This step is easiest to do while skirt is hanging or on a dress form.  I changed mine to what ever way to make it look more natural.  Use safety pins when doing this so it will stay on the tape better.

 

 

 

 

Ok now moving on to the way I decided to make my skirt.  It says to pleat the back panel. (I will show you how to in the overskirt directions.

undersideofpleates

 

 

This is the under side of the pleats.

securingpleats

 

 

 

 

To make sure my pleats will stay uniform and after washing I sewn about two inches on each placket down on the opening side.

 

 

 

 

After this its time to put the waistband on the skirt leaving an inch on each side.  Moving on to the hem the skirt.

rollhem

 

 

Finish the hem by folding the bottom edge under 1/2″ and again 1″.  Now stitch in place. When I do this I always iron it first to give it a more crisp line.

 

 

 

 

 

For me I wanted to make small pleats for the bottom ruffle.  This is very time-consuming but I really like how it looks and its historical correct for this time period.

ironhem

 

Sew all the pieces of ruffles sides together to form a one long piece.

 

 

 

allironedforpleating

 

 

 

Hem the bottom edge by turning under 1/2″ and again 1/2″ and sew down. For the top turn it down 1/2″ down and iron it in place.

 

 

 

 

Now for the fun stuff.

mtlinpleater

 

This is called a perfect pleater. Depending on what with you would like for your pleats it baste on how man tuck per line.  I decided to do ever two.. It give is a bigger pleat.  It takes a little practice but once you figure it out it really easy to do.  To keep your pleats in you can use water and a small amount of vinegar.  It really keep the pleats in.  Before you remove them to sew.  I used some masking tape to hold them in place.

 

 

bastpleas

 

It’s very tricky to baste them in place as they want to move on you, so hold down your tape and watch the underside to keep the folds uniform.

 

 

 

finishedpleats

 

wow finally done it took me two hours but I really like how they will look on the skirt.

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