Here is my design I will be working on… post some new pictures when I am done.
Sorry been really busy sewing a lot of things lately. Well I just finished this steampunk outfit. This is just made with a pattern skirt which I didn’t really care for so I made some changes to it. For the top I drafted and designed it for my liking. The skirt is made from a nylon type material, I am not sure as I bought it a long time ago. I didn’t really care for the way the skirt hanged, so I added some ribbon to be able to gather it up in the front to give it that Victorian look. This is what came out to be.
This petticoat pattern it quite every easy. I’m using TV (Truly Victorian) Pattern TV 170. This pattern has four variations you can use depending on the year.
First cut out all your pattern pieces depending on which year you decided to use. I then serge each piece to make sure that the material won’t fray.
I then sewn the darts in the front and sewn each of the front pieces together
For the back you take each piece and sew up to the marking and stop. On each side of the pack you will then fold in the seam on each side down
On the back florence you sew tucks. I actually did to many and later had to take some out. Best to do small ones and not to many you can always put more in if you need to.
Now baste the top of the florence. Next sew it to the bottom of the back .
Attach the fluorescence to the back of the two sewn half together. Now you should have an almost completed petticoat.
The the fun part each piece of the ruffle you need to sew together to make this one very long piece. When you have that finished. Start basting and pull to make gathers to fit on the bottom of your petticoat.
Sew the ruffle onto the bottom of the petticoat.
Waistband is now finished. Take some string and lace it through the waist band.
Side and back without the bustle
Petticoat over bustle.
Now to move on to the waist band. First fold over the top about half In and iron it down. This will help you get a nice straight line.
Now fold it again and tuck it under its self like this. Now you can sew it together.
After completing this I started to sew the ties on the bottom, middle to tie back the front of the over skirt. As you can see here it’s not yet to my liking.
So I added another tie to the back making it three ties to get this effect.
Once I got what I liked I started on the pleated trim.
I measured everything to the T.
Made sure its all the right size and started ironing the whole line. After you have a nice and flat material. I start folding in the bottom and top to make the pleated trim.
Make sure you measure your fold all the way down and across. I started with a 4 1/2 in width. After the fold I will end up with a 3 inch in size.
Now that it has been folded and sewn the bottom of the trim you need to start making your pleats with the pleater.
Make sure after ironing you put some tape down to hold your pleats in place before you sew them together.
Your pleats should look like this after you sew them together and now you can take of the tape.
Now it’s time to start pinning the pleats to the bottom of the over skirt. After I did that I sewn some white trim to give it some accent too.
Now I need to move onto the back bustle of the overskirt. First you put 3 twill tapes down the back so you can pin them up a touch to give you that puffy feeling. Pin them into place and then hand stitch them to the tapes.
Now its time to sew the bottom of the corset to start putting boning in.
For this corset I did some research and I felt I didn’t have enough boning. I wanted more support for the bust area.
Make sure you measure correctly for the boning. You don’t want them to be too long as you need to have room for the top bias to cover the edges. Better to be to short then to long.
I used double fold bias tape. You can make your own if you like. Now I pinned the bias tape on the edges and make sure to line it up correctly with the edges.
Here you can see I stitched right on the first fold and let me tell you that boning moves on you at times. I broke 2 needles… little bugger.
This pattern calls for adding a ribbon to the top of the corset. I wanted to try this; so it will hug my top part better. Before you sew the bias tape down on the other side, you place the ribbon at the end and I cupped it on both side of the corset and sewn back and forth on both sides of the ribbon. Going through front, corset material and back of the ribbon. I wanted to make sure it wouldn’t ever break.
This is how it looks on the front side after pinning the bias tape down on the other side. I know you can see the pink ribbon color coming through. It’s fine for me I will be decorating later and it will have embroidery to match.
To make sure I get everything even and placed right. I basted the bias tape down on the inside. I did it in another color, so it will be easy to see it when I take it out after I sew it with white.
To make sure you don’t see the stitches I sew it by hand with a whip stitch small as possible. Boy this was a lot of work. But well worth it, it looks so clean on the front.
Before you start putting in your rivets, make sure you use a ruler to measure each rivets placement and mark it about an inch apart. Depending on how many rivets you want. The more you have the better. This way it will distribute the stress on the corset evenly throughout. You can see I used a pen to place my rivets holes.
I bought a rivet tool kit and let me tell you its worth every penny. They aren’t that much but well worth it. I have done rivets without it before and its hard and they don’t come out as nice.
This is the tool to make the hole for the rivets they give you some wood to put behind it as it cut the material out. Couple hits with the hammer.
Look how nice and even this hole is after using this punching tool. You don’t even have to hit the hammer really that hard. It comes out so nice and clean.
After making the hole you put the rivet with the long inner shank through the hole. Place the top rivet on it. It it a couple of time and its set. What a great tool.
Here is the back all finished riveted. Now lace it up and you’re ready to try it on.
I had to tie it in the front due to I put this on by myself. Now its time to decorate it.
Started my Victorian Bust-Core Corset. This is what the use to wear in the 1840 -1890’s. I’m working on this interesting pattern. I’m truly trying to get the correct silhouette For my historical bustle dress. I have read a lot of information about this time frame and it’s important to get the correct silhouette underneath your garment so it will look and hold the dress actuality.
First I had to cut all the items of the material. One is the coutil, one is the lining and the last one is the fashion fabric. Which will be showing on the outside. I made sure I serged each piece before I started sewing them together. Make sure to number the pieces first. Its very easy to get them mixed up with one another.
I found out the hard way and once I figured it out I numbers all three material to then sew them in a assembly line.
Then you need to make sure each piece will fit the other piece, the best it can. Take your time and make sure you get it all correct.
Once you have all pieces sewn together this is call a panel now. Now you need to iron the seams open then due to the curves in the corset you’re going to have to use a pressing ham which will make is so much easier to have it bend but at the same time iron a nice seam.
You can see here that each seam is pressed open but before you can do this; you need to cut small cuts at the edge of the material to give the material some give to the sharpness of each seams. DO NOT CUT TO CLOSE TO THE SEAM.
By doing this it will help with the seam so it won’t pucker. After cutting each area that pulls on the seam make sure to seam press again and a again to get it just right.
After clipping and ironing down the seams I decided to baste down my side seams down. This will help later when I add the boning to each seam.
Dont forget to go back and forth with your sewing machine to make each opening that much stronger on the edges. In this picture you can see where I sewn and stopped for the busk to slide in.