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Finishing Petticoat with Wire Bustle

For the bustle it’s time to put the boning in.  This was a challenge for me.  I followed the directions but man there has to be a better way.  They tell you to leave an opening to slide it in and then go back and hand sew it.  The first one was a mess. I notice you need to leave a bigger opening and slide it in one side and then slide the other end in… by doing this you will have a bow on the outside of the boning and slide it in carefully without ripping your casting. Then slide it down the channel.

bustleboning

 

 

 

 

 

sewinties

 

Next you need to sew at each end of the channels some cord.  This is for a collapsible bustle which is quite nice. They are big and this way they won’t take up to much of your closets space.  You can see the ties I used was not cotton it was synthetic so I could burn the ends, this way they wouldn’t fray.

 

 

 

 

tiedbustletogether

 

This is what it looks like inside the bustle after you tie them together. Really cool pattern.

 

 

 

backbustle

Here is the bustle finally done.. I will need to go back andsidebustle determine the length of the hem I will need.  This is a back view and a side view the silhouette is great. Now onto the petticoat.

 

 

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Petticoat with Wire Bustle

Today I worked on my Petticoat with Wire Bustle 1870’s and 1880’s which will support those styles of bustle dresses. This pattern is by Truly Victorian.  TV-101

I’m really excited to work on this pattern as its based on an actual garment as seen in Harper’s Bazaar magazine.  This pattern that I’m sewing will be easy for storage because it folds down flat.

These directions were quite easy to follow.  I bought theses from Truly Victorian.  The have a nice collection to choose from.

First I serge all my edges on all of my pattern pieces before i started sewing my seams.

serger-edges

With each seam I made sure I ironed each and everyone.  I thought I would post a picture of one that wasn’t ironed her below so you can see the difference.

normalseam

 

 

What a big difference when you don’t set the seam.

 

 

 

On the bustle part I pinned bias tape to the upper bustle part.  Trying very hard to give them a straight line as possible.

pinbiatapesewingbias 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

finishedbiaschannel

 

 

One completed channel sewn

 

 

sewncouplechannels

 

 

I have two lines done

 

 

topbustlehoop

 

Now finished sewing all three channels that go across the bustle.

 

other-side-channel

 

 

For this channel it’s sewn at a diagonally part way.  You only sew up and back and leave the top open.

forthchannel

 

 

 

At the top of  channel one I sewn another open channel over the first channel. Be very careful not to sew closed the bottom channel.hoopboning

 

 

Here is the boning I cut to the correct length from the pattern instructions. Don’t put these in just yet.  I will be making the

 

flourencepattern

 

 

Now moving on to the florence. This you will need to sew each of the pieces together.

 

 

Ironingseam

 

 

Remember to iron the seams down.  I bought this little iron and I just love it.  It’s just made for ironing down seams.  Nice not to have to brag out the big iron all the time.

 

 

 

 

gatherflourence

 

Now I need to baste the top of the florence to fit it to the front and back bustle. Due to all the material and its weight.  I decided to double pin both directions to keep the gathers in the right about all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

sewgathersontopskirt

 

 

Little by little I would sew slowly and take pins out when you come to them. This really helped me keep my gathers more even all the way around.

 

 

 

 

 

finished

 

This is what it looks like sewn on.  Make sure to take out your basting stitches.  It will look a lot better if you do.

 

 

 

 

 

sewnonflource

 

 

Now the material will fall more even by taking out the extra stitches.

 

 

 

 

 

sewingonwaistband

 

 

Moving on to the top portion of the bustle to add the waistband.  Before sewing it on you need to baste the upper top to fit your waist size.

 

 

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